Laurel hedges are everywhere in Irish gardens, and for good reason. They grow quickly, they are evergreen, they provide excellent privacy, and they look well all year round. But like anything in the garden, laurel does best when you know how to look after it properly.
We have been planting, pruning, and renovating laurel hedges across Dundalk and County Louth for over 35 years. In this guide, we will walk you through everything you need to know, from choosing the right variety and planting correctly, to the annual care that keeps a laurel hedge looking its best.
Cherry Laurel vs Portuguese Laurel: Which One?
The two types of laurel you will find in Irish garden centres are cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) and Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica). They are quite different plants, and which one you choose depends on your situation.
Cherry Laurel
- Leaves: Large, glossy, bright green
- Growth rate: Fast (40-60cm per year)
- Mature height: Can reach 6-8 metres if unmanaged
- Best for: Rapid screening, larger gardens, perimeter hedges
Cherry laurel is the more common choice. It puts on growth quickly and fills in to create a dense, impenetrable screen. The leaves are large and leathery, which means you need to use secateurs rather than a hedge trimmer for the neatest finish (more on that below).
Portuguese Laurel
- Leaves: Smaller, darker green with red stems
- Growth rate: Moderate (30-40cm per year)
- Mature height: Typically 3-5 metres as a managed hedge
- Best for: More refined hedges, smaller gardens, formal settings
Portuguese laurel is a more elegant plant. The smaller leaves give it a finer texture, and the red stems add a lovely colour contrast. It is a bit slower to establish, but it is easier to keep at a manageable size and makes a neater, more compact hedge.
Planting a Laurel Hedge
When to Plant
The best time to plant a laurel hedge in Ireland is between October and March, when the plants are dormant or semi-dormant. Bare-root laurel can only be planted during this window, while container-grown plants can technically go in at any time, though they establish best during the cooler months.
Spacing
- Cherry laurel: Plant at 60-90cm apart (2-3 plants per metre)
- Portuguese laurel: Plant at 45-60cm apart (2-3 plants per metre)
Closer spacing gives a denser hedge more quickly, but it costs more. For most domestic hedges, planting at 60cm intervals is a good balance between speed and cost.
How to Plant
- Dig a trench about 60cm wide and 40cm deep along the line of the hedge
- Improve the soil by mixing in compost or well-rotted manure
- Place the plants at your chosen spacing, making sure the top of the rootball is level with the surrounding soil
- Backfill with the improved soil mix, firming gently around each plant
- Water thoroughly after planting
- Mulch with bark chip or compost to retain moisture and suppress weeds
Aftercare in the First Year
Newly planted laurel hedges need regular watering during their first spring and summer, especially during dry spells. Water deeply once or twice a week rather than a little bit every day. This encourages roots to grow down into the soil rather than staying near the surface.
Avoid feeding in the first year. The plant’s energy should go into establishing its root system, not pushing out top growth.
Pruning Laurel: The Right Way
This is where many people go wrong with laurel, and it is worth taking the time to understand why.
Why You Should Use Secateurs, Not a Hedge Trimmer
Laurel has large, broad leaves. When you run a hedge trimmer along it, the blade cuts through the middle of the leaves, leaving ragged, brown-edged half-leaves all over the hedge. It looks terrible and stays looking terrible for weeks until new growth covers it up.
The proper way to prune laurel is with hand secateurs or loppers. Yes, it takes longer. But by cutting individual stems rather than shearing through leaves, you get a clean, green finish that looks far better. For a long laurel hedge, this is a job that takes patience, which is one of the reasons many people prefer to have it done professionally.
When to Prune
- Main annual prune: Late July to early September
- Optional spring tidy: April to May (only if needed)
Avoid pruning in late autumn or winter, as any new growth stimulated by pruning can be damaged by frost.
How to Prune
- Aim to take off just the current year’s growth, maintaining the established shape
- Cut back to a leaf node on each stem, which is where the new growth will sprout
- Keep the base slightly wider than the top so that sunlight reaches the lower branches. This prevents the common problem of laurel hedges going bare at the bottom
- Step back regularly to check the overall shape as you work
Feeding and Watering
Established laurel hedges are not particularly demanding, but a bit of care goes a long way.
Feeding
Apply a general-purpose granular fertiliser (something like Growmore or fish, blood, and bone) around the base of the hedge in late March or April. This gives the hedge a boost going into the growing season. Scatter the fertiliser along the drip line and water it in.
For laurel hedges that look a bit tired or yellow, a foliar feed with a seaweed-based product can perk them up. Apply it in spring or early summer.
Watering
Established laurel hedges are reasonably drought-tolerant, but they will appreciate a good soak during prolonged dry spells, particularly if they are growing in light or sandy soil. Young hedges (under 2 years) should be watered regularly during dry weather.
Mulching
Apply a 5-8cm layer of bark chip, compost, or leaf mould around the base of the hedge each spring. This helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and slowly feeds the soil as it breaks down.
Common Problems with Laurel Hedges
Shot Hole Disease
This is the most common problem you will see on laurel. The leaves develop small brown spots that eventually fall out, leaving the leaf looking like it has been peppered with shot. It is caused by a bacterial infection (Pseudomonas syringae) and is most common in wet weather.
What to do: In most cases, shot hole disease is cosmetic and the hedge will grow through it. Improve air circulation by not letting the hedge become too dense, and clear up fallen leaves from around the base. Chemical sprays are rarely necessary.
Powdery Mildew
A white, powdery coating on the leaves, usually appearing in late summer. It tends to affect hedges that are in sheltered, shady spots with poor air circulation.
What to do: Prune to improve air flow. In severe cases, a fungicide spray may help, but improving the growing conditions is the long-term solution.
Yellow Leaves
If your laurel hedge is turning yellow, it is usually a sign of one of three things: waterlogging, nutrient deficiency, or compacted soil. Check the drainage around the hedge, apply a balanced feed, and consider aerating the soil at the base.
Bare at the Bottom
This is often caused by the hedge being too narrow at the top. Light cannot reach the lower branches, so they die off. The solution is to re-shape the hedge so that the base is wider than the top. In severe cases, a renovation prune may be needed.
Renovating an Overgrown Laurel Hedge
The great news about laurel is that it responds brilliantly to hard pruning. If your hedge has grown too tall, too wide, or has become bare and leggy, you can cut it back hard and it will regrow.
How to Renovate
- Do the work in late winter or early spring (February to March), before the main growing season
- Cut one side of the hedge back hard, right to the main stems if necessary. Leave the other side intact for now
- Feed the hedge after cutting with a balanced fertiliser and water well
- Wait one full growing season for the cut side to regenerate
- Cut back the other side the following year
By doing one side at a time, you avoid stressing the plant too much and ensure it always has enough leaf area to photosynthesise and recover. It takes two years to complete, but the result is a completely rejuvenated hedge.
For smaller jobs or general maintenance, have a look at our full guide on how and when to trim a hedge.
Frequently Asked Questions
How fast does a laurel hedge grow in Ireland?
Cherry laurel typically grows 40-60cm per year in Irish conditions, sometimes more in a warm, wet summer. Portuguese laurel is slower at 30-40cm per year. Both will form a dense hedge within 3-5 years of planting.
Can I cut a laurel hedge with a hedge trimmer?
You can, but we would not recommend it. The trimmer shreds the large leaves, leaving ugly brown edges that take weeks to grow out. Secateurs give a far cleaner finish. If you have a very long hedge and need to use a trimmer for practicality, accept that it will not look its best for a few weeks after cutting.
How far back can I cut a laurel hedge?
Laurel is very forgiving. You can cut it back to bare stems if necessary, and it will regrow from old wood. However, it is best to do this in stages (one side per year) rather than cutting the whole hedge back at once.
Is laurel poisonous?
The leaves, berries, and seeds of both cherry laurel and Portuguese laurel contain cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when ingested. Keep children and pets from eating any part of the plant. The fumes from burning or chipping laurel can also be harmful, so dispose of cuttings by composting rather than burning.
Need Help With Your Laurel Hedge?
Whether it is a new planting, annual pruning, or a full renovation of an overgrown hedge, Seamus and Pete have the experience to handle it. We provide professional hedge trimming services across Dundalk, Blackrock, Ardee, and all of County Louth. Give us a ring on 085 168 5170 for a free, no-obligation quote. We have been doing this for over 35 years, and we will have your laurel looking well in no time.
